Colombia: Not Columbia

I’m in the airport at 5:00 a.m. waiting to board my flight when I run into a couple that I used to work with. They looked wide awake but officially in vacay mode. In between my endless yawns, I asked where they were headed and simultaneously, they answered The Bahamas. Me being the island feen that I am, my eyes immediately lit up in excitement for them. Truth be told, I’m borderline jealous of anyone that tells me they are headed to the Caribbean! So, in as much enthusiasm that I can conjure up at 5:00 a.m., I wished them well and proclaimed that they would have a wonderful time. As I turn to head toward my gate they asked where I was off to and my response was that I was on my way to Colombia. Oh, South Carolina?  The husband asked and I said No, South America. Next was pure silence followed by an awkward Oh. Ok. Um. Wow. Ok. They seemed to be really caught off guard. Actually, there have been quite a few people to give me blank stares when I mention my travel plans to Colombia. These blank stares are usually followed by questions in regards to safety. You’re not scared? Nope, not scared. Is it really safe to travel there? Yup, just as safe as the last trip you took to New Orleans. Immediately following that exchange is when a few scattered words such as Escobar. Kidnappings. Drugs. Cartel. Narcos. begin to float in the air. I don’t know about you, but white sand beaches, pink seas, mud volcanos, Colombian cuisine, Afro-Colombian art and having the opportunity to visit the very first village freed from slavery in the Americas all sound like great reasons to travel to Colombia. Welp, it’s a good thing I don’t let other people’s ignorance or fear dictate what ends up on my travel agenda. If I did that, I’d miss out on all the good stuff!

Colombia Flag

Colombia Flag

Medellín

Yes, Medellín is where Pablo Escobar’s drug cartel was originated but a lot has changed in the last 40 years people (imagine an eye rolling emoji inserted right here). It’s an innovative and vibrant city located in a valley of the Andes Mountains.  The skyline is beautiful and the mountain views are stunning. My only regret about Medellín is that my timing was a little off. It was the very beginning of the rainy season and when I say it rained - it poured! Yes, I can stand a little rain, but the down pour basically eliminated most of my desired outdoor activities (e.g. walking tours, hiking, day trip to Guatapé) The other thing is that Medellín pretty much shuts down on Sundays which happened to be one of three days I was scheduled to spend there. Hey, you live and learn that’s all part of the travel journey. The silver lining here is if I ever find myself back there, I already have a head start on my agenda.

Cartagena

The majority of my time was spent in Cartagena and I enjoyed every moment.  I stayed in Bocagrande (ocean front) and also within the Walled City (old Cartagena). The weather on the coast is straight bliss and the architecture within the Walled City is a photographer’s dream. Believe me when I tell you there is no lack of color in this city. Colors are so bold they are clearly seen from your peripheral. Colombian food is deliciously flavorful and even the street vendors are hard to stay away from (not that I tried). Leaning all the way in, a walking food tour was high on the agenda and I gotta tell ya, it did not disappoint. I enjoyed some familiar bites and well as gained a liking for some others: Arepas con huevo, buñuelos, empanadas, patacones, mango biche, jugo de Sandía, limonada de coco and many more gastronomic delights.

Pescado Frito Colombiano

Pescado Frito Colombiano

Limonada de coco

Limonada de coco

Afro-Colombians were especially welcoming to me. The smiles of the people depict a level of vibrancy that I don’t encounter often. Eye contact and a smile were what set in motion a silent exchange acknowledging that we were in fact some way distant cousins. “Mi Gente, Mi Familia” are the words that ultimately follow while making connections throughout the streets. Watching Palenqueras maneuver through town with chocolate toned skin and bright smiles gave me a sense of pride to be among these beautiful black women.

San Basilio de Palenque

San Basilio de Palenque

Palenqueras in old Cartagena

Palenqueras in old Cartagena

Palenque

One of the most profound parts of this journey was traveling to San Basilio de Palenque. Palenque, which is about an hour outside of Cartagena is the first free town to be liberated from slavery in the Americas. What I learned is that this village was founded by Benkos Biohó, an African King who was captured and sold into slavery. He escaped the slavery port in Cartagena and formed an army with others who also managed to escape. What comes to mind when I think about this place is strong community, genuine hospitality, and unstoppable resilience. I got a chance to see students of Palenque’s Batata Dance and Music School perform traditional African dances that were both exhilarating and powerful. There is no doubt that the struggle is beyond real here, but there still seems to be unity, warmth and a strong sense of freedom that lingers in the air. Visiting the village of Palenque is an absolute must for anyone who finds themselves booking a flight to Cartagena.

Main square statue of African King Benkos Biohó

Main square statue of African King Benkos Biohó

Students of Palenque’s Batata Dance and Music School

Students of Palenque’s Batata Dance and Music School

Travel Ninja’s Local Tips:

Languages: Contrary to what you believe most people do NOT speak English. Please do yourself a favor and brush up on some ¡Español! Even basic phrases will go a long way. Downloading a translation app that can be used offline is a great idea.

Tour Guides: The Real Cartagena Tour (Alex Rocha); FreddyPazTours (Freddy Paz). Alex and Freddy both come highly recommended and I had great experiences with both of their local businesses.

Accommodations: Airbnb all the way!

Transportation: Although Uber is technically “illegal” it is still the way to go. As in the states it’s a lot cheaper than an official taxi (Sometimes a taxi is 2x the cost). If you’re not comfortable with the illegal Uber status just make sure to confirm the price of the Taxi ride before you drive off!  ¿Cuanto?    

Money Exchange: You’ll get the best exchange rate when using an ATM so look for Cajero Automático. Keep in mind that even though you may select an English menu when you are asked how much you’d like to withdraw you have to enter the number of Colombian Pesos instead US Dollars. For example, if you want to withdraw $200 USD do not enter 200. You have to manually convert USD to COP (e.g. 662,000 COP). Downloading an exchange rate app that can be used offline is also a great idea.  

Have you been to Colombia (not Columbia)? I’d love to hear about your local experience. Please feel free to share your comments below and follow me on Instagram @travelninja.llc

Jamaica: Traveling as a Local

The first time I visited the sweet island of Jamaica, was to the city of Montego Bay. This was a girl’s trip – sistah time was overdue and we all were in much need of some serious R&R. We took a chance on traveling during hurricane season and the weather turned out to be beyond perfect. I really need that Caribbean Sea kinda breeze in my life on a daily basis. Note to Self: Begin strategizing a plan to relocate to a Caribbean island!

I had a chance to do some inner soul searching, strengthen friendships and make new memories. There’s no doubt that I had a good time, the only “issue” was that we barely left the resort! No sweat though, I’m an island gal at heart and I knew that I’d be back again in the very near future. I made a promise to myself that when I did return, I wouldn’t miss the opportunity to explore more of this beautiful island. No more lack of exploration mishaps for me! I have since adopted this philosophy for all my travels. No matter where I am traveling, whether it be domestic or abroad the ideal travel experience is at some point to “go local”.  

I was recently invited to Ocho Rios by a good friend whose parents reside in St. Ann’s Parish. I was honored to be welcomed as a guest and believe me when I tell you, I wasted no time booking a flight – you can’t get any more local than that folks, ok?!

Oh sweet, sweet, Jamaica…The people. The culture. The music. The vibe. The food. The food. Did I mention the food? The sea. The breeze. The sunset. I’m sure the sunrise was beautiful too but I didn’t quite wake up early enough to find out. Yeah-yeah I know, that’s what photographers are “supposed” to do. We are supposed to get up before the crack of dawn, get in position and have our cameras ready to take the best sunrise shots. (I’m not there yet, no judgment please!)

Half a mile from the beach in a gated community are the family’s living quarters. All of the bedrooms have a private walkout balcony where one can enjoy that tropical breeze – no matter the time of day or night. Fresh coconut, mango, plantain and breadfruit growing in the backyard. Community streets are named after these luscious delights (like literally named, Mango Street and Coconut Way!)

Enjoying the community view from bedroom balcony

Enjoying the community view from bedroom balcony

The vibe – Mi in no rush mon. The scenic route was taken everywhere that I went and I learned a lot of history along the way about the island and its many parishes. The key is to take time and enjoy the moment. A stop on the side of the road for fresh guinep and guava. A detour to a farmer’s market for more local produce.  Pull up to Shazz or Total to pick up Yummy’s Coconut Bread (sooo good). A scenic drive through Fern Gully to admire the views and breathe in the fresh air.

“Little” Dunn’s River Beach (Falls)

“Little” Dunn’s River Beach (Falls)

I decided to skip some of the normal touristy stuff this time around. Instead of heading to Dunn’s River Falls, I spent time at “Little” Dunn’s River instead. This is where the locals go and its free! It is a hidden gem in the same vicinity but I will forewarn you, it is easy to miss from the street. I had to practice my walk down the unbeaten path balancing skills, but who doesn’t want a little adventure right? The water temperature. Cold? Warm? Actually both. There were moments when half my body was cold and the other half was warm at the same time, which was pretty interesting. The falls run into the sea so you have a mixture of cold fresh water and warm salt water.  Mini photo shoot, both behind and in front of the camera. Praying the whole time that my sidekick Nikon stays dry. Admiring heavy accents, smiling faces and melanin glistening in the sun.  Counting my blessings one by one while I enjoyed the simple pleasures in life - clear water, warm sun and good company.

Travel Ninja’s Local Food Picks:

  • Ultimate Jerk Centre – Jerk Chicken, Rice & Peas and Festival

    • Get there early if you want to select from their full menu of options. You can’t arrive at 8:00pm for dinner and expect to get your top pick – it’s not gonna happen hun.

  • Tastee – Beef Patty and Coco Bread Combo

    • Hot and fresh all day long

  • Faith’s Pen – Jerk, jerk and more jerk!

    • Roadside dining located between Spanish Town and Ocho Rios. Around 30 Jerk huts are lined up side by side, you can smell the food for a mile.  As you can imagine there are a variety of Jamaican dishes to indulge in, just take your pick!

  • Jangalee Seafood Joint & Bar – Stew Red Snapper, Rice & Peas and Fried Plantains

    • You will personally select the fresh fish that you want and wait patiently while its being prepared to your liking. Sit back watch the waves while you listen to reggae or walk around a bit, it’s worth the wait!

  • The Roxborough Restaurant & Grill – Escovitch Fish, Grilled Lobster and Coconut Shrimp

    • The beach is this restaurant’s back yard. Excellent seafood and traditional Jamaican dishes, you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu.

  • Evita’s (The Best Little Pasta House of Jamaica) – “Coo-ya” Spaghetti ai Gamberi and Fettuccine Carib-Alfredo

    • This is an upscale Jamaican Italian fusion restaurant with a fantastic view overlooking the city.

Have you been to the sweet island of Jamaica? I’d love to hear about your local experience. Please feel free to share your comments below and follow me on Instagram @travelninja.llc